How to Read the Label on Your Skincare Product
This is skincare label literacy - made human.
Most skincare labels aren’t written for humans. They’re written for regulators and for marketers trying to hide behind them. What looks like science is often smoke and mirrors. Long words. Small fonts. Big promises.
But your skin deserves better.
At VAER, we believe that every ingredient should serve a purpose your skin can recognize - not just a shelf life or a sales pitch. That’s why we created this guide: to help you read past the buzzwords and decode what’s really inside the jar.
Whether you’re new to ingredient lists or already wondering about the “natural” claims on your nightstand, this is your starting point.
You’ll learn:
- How ingredients are ordered (and what that means)
- Why water, fragrance, and fillers are worth questioning
- What to flag, avoid, or flat-out ditch
- And how VAER takes a different approach entirely
Filler Ingredients
Most people expect skincare to feel light, smooth, and creamy, but they don’t realize they’re often paying for a bulked-up base that offers little skin benefit. Fillers like water, glycerin, or silicones are cheap, and they make up the bulk of many formulas.
While they help with texture or shelf stability, they often dilute the formula’s effectiveness and therefore create a need for preservatives. Look at the first five ingredients. If it starts with “aqua” or is full of things ending in -cone, ask: What am I actually paying for?
Emulsifiers & Thickeners
Emulsifiers help oil and water blend. Thickeners give that creamy texture people love. But these textural tricks come at a cost.
Many emulsifiers and gums (like PEGs, polysorbates, xanthan gum, or carbomers) can weaken the skin barrier, cause sensitivity, or disrupt the skin’s natural repair cycle. They're not always dangerous, but they rarely nourish.
In short: if it exists to make a product look better on the shelf rather than work better on the skin, it’s worth questioning.
Preservatives & Hidden Irritants
If a product contains water, it must contain preservatives. That’s not inherently bad, but some preservatives do more harm than good.
Common offenders include:
- Phenoxyethanol
- Parabens
- Formaldehyde-releasing agents (like DMDM Hydantoin, Imidazolidinyl Urea)
-
Benzyl alcohol, used even in "natural" products
Even small amounts can cause irritation, disrupt hormones, or trigger allergic responses over time. And many are hidden under names like “preservative system” or buried inside the term “fragrance.”
Fragrance & “Natural” Tricks
“Fragrance” is legally allowed to include dozens of unlisted chemicals. That means even a product labeled “clean” or “natural” may still include hormone disruptors, allergens, and synthetic compounds your skin has no business dealing with.
Even essential oils when used without thought to concentration or interaction can irritate or sensitize skin over time.
Be cautious of:
- Fragrance / parfum
- Natural aroma blends
-
Essential oils at high concentrations
If your skincare smells like perfume, it might be doing more than just soothing your senses.
Ingredient Spotlights
Some ingredients show up everywhere - but should they? Here’s a breakdown of 20 of the most common skincare ingredients, and what to know about each:
Water (Aqua) - Used as the base for most emulsions and lotions; often the first ingredient listed. Water is usually listed as ingredient #1, making up 70–90% of many creams and lotions. It dilutes the good stuff, leaving very little room for nutrient-dense ingredients. This means water isn't neutral - it actually introduces a chain reaction of compromises that often results in preservatives needing to be added. If there’s no occlusive or lipid-rich layer to seal it in, water can evaporate quickly, sometimes worsening dryness.
VAER adds no water in our balms and body formulations. If additional hydration is needed, we suggest applying our products on slightly damp skin - no filler water needed in the jar.
Glycerin - A plant-derived humectant that draws moisture. It can both prevent dryness, and exacerbate it too. In dry environments (like winter or indoor heating), it can pull water out of your deeper skin layers, leading to dehydration if not paired with an occlusive ingredient. Many formulas use it as a substitute for real fats, but it doesn’t nourish or repair the skin barrier. Glycerin is widely used because it’s cheap and effective.
VAER uses no Glycerin in its products.
Dimethicone - A silicone-based polymer that creates a silky, smooth finish on the skin. It’s commonly used in primers, moisturizers, and “pore-blurring” products because it gives that velvety texture. While it’s technically non-comedogenic, dimethicone is occlusive, meaning it sits on the skin and can block airflow and trap bacteria, sweat, or other ingredients underneath. It offers a surface-level fix but doesn’t nourish or repair the skin barrier.
VAER avoids dimethicone because it prioritizes surface feel over skin health and doesn’t align with our whole-fat, biologically compatible formulation philosophy.
Petrolatum / Mineral Oil - These are byproducts of petroleum refining, used to form a heavy, water-resistant barrier on the skin. While they’re technically non-comedogenic and widely used in drugstore balms and ointments (like Vaseline), they do not nourish or repair the skin barrier. Instead, they sit on top like plastic wrap, trapping heat, sweat, and bacteria while blocking airflow. Sustainability is also a concern: these ingredients are derived from fossil fuels and add nothing biologically compatible to the skin.
VAER avoids all petroleum-derived ingredients. We use beeswax as a thickening agent to create a breathable, skin-friendly barrier that protects while allowing the skin to function naturally.
Cetearyl Alcohol / Cetyl Alcohol - These are fatty alcohols, not the same as drying alcohols like ethanol. They’re used to thicken creams and help oils and water blend (emulsification). On their own, they’re not harmful - they’re actually an emollient and are conditioning for the skin. They are used to give texture to creams and lotions, stabilize oil-water emulsions and feel rich and smooth on application. While not drying, they often appear in formulas that rely heavily on synthetic emollients or water. They’re neutral, meaning they don’t harm, but they don’t deeply nourish either.
VAER doesn’t use emulsifiers like Cetearyl or Cetyl alcohol because we don’t use water in our products. Our balms are 100% active ingredients, so there’s no need to stabilize or thicken as it’s not a water-based emulsion.
Fragrance / Parfum -
This is a catch-all term that can represent dozens or even hundreds of individual chemicals, most of which aren’t disclosed due to trade secret laws. These can include allergens, endocrine disruptors, and skin sensitizers, even in products labeled “unscented.” They add a pleasing or signature scent to mask chemical odors or enhance experience, but can cause skin irritation, redness, or allergic reactions, especially for sensitive or compromised skin. Synthetic fragrance blends can disrupt hormone function or trigger migraines and respiratory issues. “Fragrance-free” doesn’t always mean no fragrance - some products include “masking scents” under other names.
VAER does not use synthetic fragrance or parfum. We selectively use therapeutic-grade essential oils for both their natural aroma and their skin benefits - always in safe, low concentrations. We always list every ingredient (no matter how small).
Phenoxyethanol - a synthetic preservative commonly used in place of parabens. It’s found in everything from cleansers to moisturizers and baby products because it’s cost-effective and has broad antimicrobial action helping prevent bacterial and fungal growth in water-based products. It also extends shelf life of formulations containing water, aloe, or plant extracts. It has been linked to skin irritation, allergic reactions, and contact dermatitis, especially for people with sensitive skin. It also has been shown in studies to depress central nervous system function in infants when used in high concentrations, and can disrupt the skin microbiome, weakening barrier function over time. Citation: CIR Expert Panel (2007). Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Phenoxyethanol. International Journal of Toxicology
VAER does not use synthetic preservatives
Parabens (Methylparaben, Propylparaben) - These preservatives are banned in the EU due to endocrine disruption concerns. They are synthetic preservatives used to prevent bacterial and fungal growth in water-based products. They’ve been widely used for decades due to their low cost and effectiveness in extending shelf life.
VAER does not use parabens - not just because of the controversy, but because our water-free, nutrient-dense formulas don’t need them. We preserve our balms naturally through ingredient stability, not chemical intervention.
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) / Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) - These are aggressive foaming agents used in face washes, shampoos, and even toothpaste. They create the lather that makes products feel “clean”, but at a cost. SLS is known to strip the skin’s protective oils, disrupt the lipid barrier, and increase transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Over time, this can lead to dryness, irritation, and increased sensitivity, especially for delicate facial skin. SLES is slightly milder but still comes with similar concerns. Both ingredients are known irritants and common culprits in cases of contact dermatitis.
VAER does not use SLS, SLES, or any sulfates. Our balm-based formulas cleanse gently and support the skin’s natural function, with no harsh surfactants needed.
Hyaluronic Acid / Sodium Hyaluronate - This trendy ingredient is a humectant, meaning it draws water into the skin. It’s often promoted for its ability to hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water. But what’s left out of the marketing is context: in dry environments (like heated homes or airplanes), hyaluronic acid can pull water from deeper layers of your skin, making dryness worse, unless it's sealed in with an occlusive. It can offer a temporary plumping effect but doesn’t nourish or repair the lipid barrier. Many products with hyaluronic acid include little else that supports lasting skin health, relying on sensation over substance.
VAER does not use hyaluronic acid. Instead, we encourage customers to apply our balms to slightly damp skin, allowing real hydration to be sealed in by nutrient-dense fats, not synthetic water-binders.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) - This is a lab-synthesized, water-soluble form of vitamin B3 often included in skincare for its barrier-repairing and brightening properties. It can help reduce inflammation, regulate oil production, and improve the appearance of uneven tone and fine lines. It’s generally well tolerated and widely considered one of the more beneficial synthetic actives. But while niacinamide is useful, it’s often added to water-heavy formulas that lack nourishing fats, leaving skin dependent on lab-derived actives to compensate for poor formulation design. And for sensitive users, especially in high concentrations, it can sometimes cause flushing or irritation.
VAER does not use niacinamide in our products. We focus instead on providing fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, E, K2) in their natural, bioavailable form delivered in a whole-fat, skin-native matrix.
Retinol / Retinyl Palmitate - These are synthetic derivatives of vitamin A commonly used in anti-aging products for their ability to speed up cell turnover and stimulate collagen production. While they can be effective, they also come with well-documented drawbacks: irritation, redness, flaking, and sun sensitivity. Retinoids can thin the outermost layer of skin over time, leaving it more vulnerable to environmental damage if not carefully managed. They also require stabilization in formulations, often with chemical preservatives or buffers that further stress sensitive skin.
VAER does not use retinol or its derivatives. Instead, we rely on the naturally occurring vitamin A found in grass-fed tallow - retinol in its whole-food form, delivered in a lipid matrix that your skin can recognise and utilize without the harsh side effects.
Shea Butter - A natural fat extracted from the nut of the African shea tree, shea butter is widely used for its moisturizing and emollient properties. It contains a range of beneficial fatty acids and has some anti-inflammatory effects, making it a popular ingredient in both conventional and “clean” skincare. However, not all shea butter is created equal. Refined versions may be stripped of nutrients, and unrefined versions can sometimes clog pores for acne-prone skin. While it can soften and soothe, shea butter doesn't offer the full spectrum of bioavailable fat-soluble vitamins that tallow does, and its texture can feel heavy or greasy without careful formulation.
VAER does not use shea butter in our core balms, as we prefer skin-native fats like tallow that align more closely with human biology, and absorb more efficiently without occlusion.
Sunflower, Grapeseed, and Safflower Oils (Seed or Vegetable Oils) - These seed oils are common in both “natural” and conventional skincare because they’re inexpensive, lightweight, and absorb quickly. But they’re also extremely high in linoleic acid, a polyunsaturated fat (PUFA) that is chemically unstable. When exposed to air, light, or heat - as in your bathroom cabinet or on your skin in the sun - these oils oxidize rapidly, producing free radicals that contribute to inflammation, skin sensitivity, and premature aging. Though some linoleic acid is essential in trace amounts, chronic overexposure, especially topically, can worsen barrier dysfunction, trigger breakouts, and make dry or reactive skin worse. While often labeled as “non-comedogenic,” these oils do little to nourish or restore skin health, and may cause more harm than good in the long run.
VAER avoids all high-PUFA seed oils. We rely on stable, biologically familiar fats like tallow, jojoba oil, and beeswax that support your skin barrier and resist rancidity, even in challenging conditions.
Tocopherol (Vitamin E) - a form of vitamin E used in skincare as both an antioxidant and a preservative. It protects oils from going rancid and helps guard the skin against oxidative stress caused by UV exposure and pollution. While naturally occurring vitamin E is highly beneficial, many skincare products use synthetic or isolated tocopherol that’s added as a stabilizer - especially in high-PUFA (polyunsaturated) oil formulas.
In small, natural concentrations, tocopherol supports skin healing, elasticity, and hydration. But in large doses, or when used to preserve unstable seed oils, it can become less effective or even irritating to sensitive skin.
VAER uses the natural vitamin E present in our whole-fat ingredients, like grass-fed tallow and calendula oil, rather than relying on synthetic tocopherol as a preservative. We focus on stability through ingredient choice, not chemical compensation.
Alcohol Denat / Ethanol -
Alcohol Denat (denatured alcohol) and Ethanol are drying alcohols commonly used in toners, gels, and “fast-absorbing” lotions. They're included in order to thin formulations, speed up drying time, or give a refreshing skin feel, but they come with a cost. These alcohols strip away natural oils and disrupt the skin barrier, often leading to tightness, flaking, or irritation - especially for sensitive or dry skin types. With prolonged use, they can make skin more prone to inflammation, sensitivity, and dehydration.
VAER does not use any drying alcohols. We believe skincare should support, not suppress, your barrier. Our formulas rely on nutrient-dense fats to deliver results without irritation.
Carbomer - Carbomer is a synthetic polymer used to thicken creams and gels, helping create smooth, uniform textures in water-based formulas. It’s especially common in conventional lotions, serums, and gels where a lightweight feel and long shelf life are priorities. While not inherently toxic, carbomer is an inert filler - it offers no benefit to the skin itself and can sometimes cause irritation in sensitive users. Its presence also signals that a product is likely built on water and emulsifiers rather than nourishing fats.
VAER does not use carbomer or any synthetic thickeners. Our balms rely on the natural consistency of whole fats, beeswax, and arrowroot for texture, no chemical structuring agents are needed.
Urea / Diazolidinyl Urea -
Urea can serve dual purposes in skincare: at low concentrations, it acts as a humectant that helps draw moisture into the skin; at higher concentrations, it’s a keratolytic - used to soften rough skin and exfoliate. Diazolidinyl Urea is a very different compound. It’s a formaldehyde-releasing preservative, commonly used in water-based formulas to extend shelf life. While effective at controlling microbial growth, it raises serious concerns about skin irritation, allergic reactions, and long-term exposure to formaldehyde, a known carcinogen.
VAER avoids both forms. We don’t use water, so we don’t need preservatives, and we believe any ingredient associated with formaldehyde has no place in daily-use skincare.
Quaternium-15 - A formaldehyde-releasing preservative used in a wide range of cosmetics and personal care products, including creams, cleansers, and shampoos. While effective at preventing microbial growth, Quaternium-15 slowly breaks down and releases formaldehyde over time. This raises serious concerns about skin sensitization, allergic reactions, and long-term carcinogenic exposure. It has been banned or restricted in the EU and is being phased out in other regions, but remains legal in many markets.
VAER never uses Quaternium-15 or any ingredient that releases formaldehyde. We build stability through simplicity and ingredient integrity, not synthetic preservation systems. Citation: FDA: Formaldehyde and Formaldehyde-Releasing Preservatives in Cosmetics; NIH Report on Carcinogens: Formaldehyde
Conclusion: Don’t Just Trust the Front of the Label
The front of the bottle is marketing.
The back of the label is the truth.
Once you learn to decode ingredient lists, it becomes harder to unsee what’s really inside most skincare products, and easier to understand what your skin actually needs.
At VAER, we believe skincare should be built on transparency, simplicity, and biological compatibility. That’s why we list every ingredient clearly, use only what your skin recognizes, and skip everything it doesn’t.
Whether you’re shopping for a balm that nourishes without filler, or a ritual that respects your skin’s design….Your skin will know the difference.