The Science of Linoleic Acid and PUFA Breakdown in Skincare

Most modern moisturizers are built on plant-based oils that feel light and absorb quickly - but many of these rely heavily on polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs), especially linoleic acid. While PUFAs are essential in the diet (in small amounts), their role in leave-on skincare is more complex - and often harmful when misunderstood.

Let’s explore the science of why PUFA-heavy skincare may be doing more damage than good.

What Are PUFAs?

PUFAs (polyunsaturated fatty acids) contain multiple double bonds, making them highly reactive to oxygen, heat, and light. This instability makes them prone to oxidation, where the fats break down and generate free radicals - unstable molecules that damage skin cells.

Linoleic acid is the dominant PUFA in most mainstream “lightweight” oils. It's especially abundant in commonly used seed oils like sunflower, grapeseed, and safflower - favored for their quick absorption but not their long-term skin compatibility.

Why Oxidation Matters

Once oxidized, PUFA oils generate free radicals that can:

• Damage collagen and elastin
• Disrupt the skin barrier
• Accelerate signs of aging
• Trigger inflammation and breakouts

And oxidation doesn’t just happen on your skin. Many products degrade before they even reach your face - during shipping, storage, or sitting on a shelf in warm, humid conditions. The result? A moisturizer that works against your skin rather than for it.

Free Radicals and Skin Damage

Free radicals are unstable atoms that “steal” electrons from healthy skin cells, sparking a chain reaction of oxidative stress. Over time, this leads to:

• Premature aging
• Chronic inflammation
• Hyperpigmentation
• Weakened immunity against bacteria and environmental stressors
  

Most PUFA-rich products attempt to counteract this with antioxidants like vitamin E, but often the levels are too low to keep up with the rate of oxidation.

Why “Lightweight” Isn’t Always Better

The skincare industry often equates “lightweight” with “good for oily skin” - but that’s a marketing shortcut. In reality, many of these lightweight products use fragile seed oils that degrade quickly and destabilize the skin over time.

PUFA-Rich Oils to Watch For

If your skincare routine includes oils high in linoleic acid, consider making a shift. Common PUFA-rich oils include:

• Sunflower seed oil
• Grapeseed oil
• Safflower oil
• Soybean oil
• Corn oil
• Rice bran oil
• Cottonseed oil
• Hemp seed oil

These oils are highly processed, often refined using heat and solvents, and prone to rancidity.

By contrast, stable, saturated or monounsaturated fats, like tallow and jojoba oil, closely mimic the skin’s own lipids. They hydrate deeply, resist oxidation, and support the skin’s natural defenses without creating a cycle of dependency or inflammation.

The VÆR Approach: PUFA-Free, Skin-Compatible Skincare

VÆR formulations are deliberately free from high-PUFA oils. Instead, we focus on fats that are:

• Stable under heat and light
• Structurally similar to human sebum
• Naturally rich in skin-supportive vitamins and antioxidants

Our core ingredients - grass-fed tallow, jojoba oil, beeswax, and calendula extract - create a resilient foundation that feeds the skin, not fights it.

Conclusion: Ditch the Oxidation, Restore the Barrier

Linoleic acid may look good on paper, but its instability can quietly undermine your skin’s long-term health. Instead of chasing trends or surface-level hydration, VÆR offers stable, bioavailable nourishment rooted in ancestral wisdom and modern skin biology.

Read some research here→  NEED RESEARCH ARTICLE HERE

Read our Skincare Philosophy here→

Shop our Tallow Collection here→